Arrive in a new city, search for the best magazine and bookshops, and head in the direction to the town’s often-quirky areas. A weekend in Zurich was the perfect opportunity to support one of the local magazine stores, in this case, Print Matters!
Print not only matters; it’s had a renaissance over the last decade as independent publishers continue to launch and nurture niche titles with a focus on quality, crafting beautiful publications that magazine lovers search out. I have a selection of titles that arrive each month through magazine subscriptions, but having the opportunity to head to a physical store to discover new titles is such an incredible part of the magazine-buying experience.
Some of my purchases. Besides Print Matters!, a visit to Zurich’s Monocle coffee shop is highly recommended while in town.
The Ever Given is finally free after blocking the Suez Canal for the best part of a week, causing a traffic jam of up to $9 billion a day in global trade.
As I was drinking my coffee this morning and thinking about a situation where a ship capable of carrying up to 20,000 containers can bring the trade routes to its knees, I realised that one of my favourite JR pieces uses shipping containers as a canvas fit for a ballet dancer.
The ballerina jumping in containers was from a series of photographs JR shot with dancers from the Paris Opera Ballet at the Port of Le Havre in 2014. Once the Suez drama starts to fade away, I’ll be happy to be left with this beautiful artwork.
JR: Omelia Contadina, San Gimignano, Italy
In other JR news, I was lucky enough to catch him lead a performative event with Alice Rohrwacher in San Gimignano last year. Check out the images of Omélia Contadina here.
It doesn’t surprise me to read that the global art market dipped 22 percent year-on-year, to $50.1 billion this year. These are the findings of the latest art market report, an annual global art market analysis published by Art Basel and UBS today for 2021.
I read the highlights of the 2020 report on a plane ride to Tefaf, just days before Europe went into a lockdown due to COVID. Tefaf itself would close its doors early after that opening weekend. Following March, the art world felt it, with more than half of art fairs cancelled (61 percent), providing dealers with just 13 percent of their revenue.
Noah Horowitz, Director Americas, Art Basel, said in the Director’s Foreward that, “The telltale finding of this year’s report is the tremendous ascent of online sales, which doubled in value from 2019 to 2020, accounting for one quarter of total sales.”
Digital innovation as a result of COVID comes as no surprise. Art fairs scrambled to bring technology in development to the public in a much quicker timeframe as anticipated. While I found visiting Online Viewing Rooms (OVRs) a novelty, I can’t wait to be face to face with the artwork once more. I’m not alone; more than 80 percent of collectors intend to return to art fairs in 2021.
A few of my thoughts as I settled down to visit OVRs during COVID
Five additional takeaways from the art market report:
1. Online sales exceeded bricks-and-mortar galleries for the first time. Online sales doubled to a record high of $12.4 billion, accounting for an all-time high of 25 percent of the market’s overall value, up from just 9 percent in 2019.
2. 66 percent of high net worth individuals’ interest in collecting grew because of the pandemic, and 32 percent say it grew significantly.
3. Millennials are the biggest spenders. More than a third (38%) spent over $1 million.
4. Women outspent their male counterparts, with their median expenditure rising 13percent.
5. Collectors switched to a conservative purchasing strategy in 2020, with nearly a half (46 percent) focused on galleries they had bought from previously.
One year ago today, this little robin crash-landed into our living room window. Somewhat dazed from the impact, we hung out together until he had the strength to fly off.
This fleeting moment should have been the highlight of the day, but Friday the 13th had more instore. Three hours later, I was back on the train home as offices throughout the region closed their doors.
Running through the Arcadia mountains in the center of the Peloponnese
The Menalon Trail has been on my radar for a few years. Situated in Greece’s Arcadia region, it traverses 75km of mountains from Stemnitsa to Lagadia, passing some of the most dramatic scenery steeped in history. Making use of old mule paths, the trail joins nine historic villages in the Gortinyan Mountains.
Unlike other remote hiking routes, this one has a hook—it’s clearly marked with signposts along its entirety. Navigating trails without clear markings can be tiring, frustrating, and even dangerous. This trail does everything it needs to attract hikers from all over the world. And it’s been noticed. The Menalon Trail is the first trail in Greece that is certified by the European Ramblers Association.
While the Menalon trail is classed as an eight-stage trail, I calculated that a runner could cover the distance in a little over two days. We drove from Athens to Dimitsana, parked at our first night’s hotel, and took a taxi down the valley to Elliniko. While the official start of the trail is Stemnitsa, the additional 500m climb from Eliniko makes for a more runner-friendly day.
The trail between Stemnitsa and Dimitsana is a 12.5km stretch of the Menalon Trail that is known for its jaw breaking views and scenery. Leaving the village of Stemnitsa, the trail follows the Louisos Gorge down to the village of Dimitsana. Along the way, you will pass by ancient monasteries, wildflower meadows, and stunning views of the surrounding valleys and Lykaion mountain.
The trail is relatively easy and can be completed in a few hours, making it an short day on the feet. There’s plenty to keep you occupied once arriving in Dimitsana.
Dimitsana is a picturesque village surrounded by mountains and rivers, with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Dimitsana is known for its historical sites and traditional Greek architecture, including its neoclassical mansions, while its many churches and monasteries provide reminders of the area’s long and rich history. The village is also known for its hospitality and friendly locals, making it the perfect place for the first night on the Menalon Trail.
Five minutes into the trail and we already passed the first church. The trail is dotted with small white churches all along the route, each offering a moment of respite to admire the surrounding beauty. Every step of the trail is a reminder of the history and culture of the area, while also providing stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Even though Elliniko to Stemnitsa is not on the main trail, the route is well signposted for its 5km, 500m+ climb. The trail winds its way up the mountain, passing through forests of beech and chestnut trees. Despite the steep incline, the trail is worth it for the breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside that you get at the top.
At the entry of Stemnitsa, the start of the Menalon Trail, I’m filled with excitement and anticipation. I know that the next 12.5km stretch is going to be an amazing journey through the stunning Greek countryside, taking in the ancient monasteries in through the Louisos gorge.
Stemnitsa is the true start of the Menalon Trail. Starting further down the valley in Eliniko makes for a more runner-friendly distance, and it meant we could stop in Stemnitsa for lunch.
All of the afternoon objectives unfold from this viewpoint of the Louisos Gorge. We can see the monasteries dotted throughout, and our destination of Dimitsana, towards the top of the frame. With a renewed sense of energy, we set off on the trail, ready to tackle the final few hours of our journey.
Prodromos Monastery clings to the cliff face at the bottom of the Louisos Gorge, providing an awe-inspiring sight as you make your way down the trail. The monastery was built in the 12th century and is still in use today; it is a reminder of the long and rich history of the region. The views from the monastery are truly breathtaking, with the surrounding mountains providing a stunning backdrop.
Monastery, one of the oldest in Greece, takes a more prominent location on the right. As we make our way down the trail, the monasteries offer us a moment of respite to admire the stunning landscape, and remind us of the rich history and culture of the area.
Prodromos Monastery nests under the rock in the spectacular Louisos Gorge. Dating back to the 12th century, this monastery is a reminder of the long and rich history of the area, and a testament to the faith of its people. The monastery is precariously placed, clinging to the cliff face, and provides stunning views of the surrounding countryside. It’s easy to see why this is a highlight of the Menalon Trail.
Flat cap on backwards, running vest, sarong. Well dressed for a visit to admire the Philosophou Monastery.
The Menalon Trail is colour-coded over the three days. Red, yellow, and green trail markers show you the way.
En Dimitsana Guesthouse is a cozy guesthouse located at the end of the first day of the Menalon Trail. It has stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The guesthouse offers comfortable accommodation and delicious local cuisine, as well as a friendly atmosphere and warm hospitality. After an afternoon running, it’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a sunset beer.
The Menalon Trail day 2: Dimitsana to Vytina
DISTANCE: 27km ELEVATION: 1000m
After leaving Dimitsana, we climbed up into the mountains. The treeline reached the summits, and paths often opened up to plateaus, which threw us off a sense of progress on the way to Zygovisti.
We planned to eat at the small village of Elati, which is a 1km climb off the main trail, though we arrived at a deserted village. The local taverna was locked and nobody around—all except two dogs who were more than happy to help us eat our only Cliff Bar.
The lack of people was again a talking point as we passed through a second day without crossing other people. When we arrived in the cute mountain town of Vytina later in the day, it was clear we were the first tourists on the trail in 2020.
Navigating your route is made easy with destinations in both Greek and English, distance markers, and estimated travel times.
All packed for two days on the trail. We had left our car at the first night stop in Dimitsana and would return by taxi after finishing the following day.
The sun rises over the hills of Dimitsana as a shepherd drives a flock of animals through the early morning air.
A short climb leads to a breathtaking view of the picturesque town of Dimitsana, the jewel of the Arcadia region.
Giant books on the path on day two.
11.5km to our lunch stop in Elati. We had no idea at this point that we would arrive to a shuttered village.
We had to keep an eye out for turtles sunning themselves in the warm sunshine.
Lunch stop in Elati. Nothing open and two dogs more than happy to share our sole Cliff Bar and sachet of Trail Butter.
Climbing up from the depths of the Mylaon Canyon and onto the lush hills of Vytina, where you can take in the stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
We ran the trail at the end of June. Daily temperatures were around 27c, and we found water easily along the route.
The section between Elati and Vytina is considered one of the most beautiful parts of the Menalon Trail, and with it being deserted, it was the perfect spot for a secluded skinny dip.
The Menalon Trail day 3: Vytina to Lagkadia
DISTANCE: 38.5km ELEVATION: 1600m
We knew that the day had the potential to turn into a slog, so we started as soon as the bakery opened at 7 am. Spinach pies and coffee onboard, we had mentally split the day in two.
Today our stops were full of delights—ice creams, lemonade, greek salad, souvlaki, and even a beer. Quite the feast compared to the previous day’s Cliff Bar.
Arriving at the finish line in Lagkadia, we had covered the 86km (3800m+) route in two and a half days. We approached the trail with a fastpacking mentality—carrying the essentials for three days while mostly power hiking. Our definition of “runnable terrain” evolved over the three days, stepping up to a jog only when the slope seemed ideal!
As the sun rises on day three, we set off from Vytina, ready to tackle the day ahead.
Almost 40km ahead of us meant a strategic breakfast order at the bakery in Vytina.
Leaving Vytnia with pastries and coffee to accompany the first kms.
Early morning in the impressive ravine outside of Vytina.
As we hiked through the lush countryside, we were greeted by the buzzing of bees hard at work in their hives. A reminder of the beauty and harmony of nature.
Valtesiniko proved to be a great place for lunch, with several restaurants and cafes offering a variety of tasty dishes. After the previous day’s less-than-stellar experience, we were happy to find a satisfying meal to fuel us for the rest of the day’s run.
After hours of running, the sight of a small ice cream shop in the quaint village of Magouliana was a welcome relief.
After red and yellow, it was the turn of the green signposts to guide your way.
The drag from Valtesiniko to the finish line in Lagkadia tested our endurance. As the heat beat down on us, we dug deep and pushed on to the end.
Job done! Elliniko to Lagkadia (86km) in two and a half days. The Menalon Trail is everything we hoped for and more. A runnable trail in a beautiful region of Greece.
Menalon Trail Logistics
START: GETTING TO ELLINIKO
The closest airport is Athens (ATH).
By road, Dimitsana is around 2 and a half hours drive from Athens.
Most walkers tackle the trail by basing themselves at one location and taking a taxi to the trailhead each day. We decided to park the car at the end of the first day in Dimitsana. From there we took a €25 taxi to the start of the trail in Elliniko.
FINISH: LEAVING LAGADIA
Having left the car in Dimitsana, we arranged for a €25 taxi to take us back.
Whilst documenting the Freeride World Tour in Andorra last week, I couldn’t help but notice the abstract patterns caused by the roller balls of snow. From every angle snowballs had cascaded their way down the face, coming to rest when their momentum fizzled out. I took a bit of time during each helicopter reposition to capture some of these cool looking formations.
Heli Time
The art of capturing content from a helicopter with its door open proves to be a rather exhilarating process. The helicopter serves two purposes during the event: transmitting live video coverage of the athletes from the HD Cineflex, whilst allowing a photographer to take advantage of the empty back seats, shooting directly out of the door. A couple of slings attached to your climbing harness strap you in place, and you’re good to go. Perspectives shift with every press of the cameras shutter, (as you can see in GIF below) with the helicopter tracking each athlete as they make their way down the competition face.
Roller Balls In The Snow
As soon as each skier or snowboarder made it to the finish area, the helicopter would reposition itself at the top of the mountain face, giving me time to capture these roller balls without the human element. I find myself becoming more and more attracted to landscapes without the human form in them, with my body of personal work always looking out for abstract patterns and unique angles. I’ve put together a selection of them for you here.
Adding Some Action
Of course, the whole reason to be up there was to capture the action of the Tour. Generally the athletes were missing out on these areas until snowboarder Shannan Yates found the perfect line through. Fluid action through the abstract roller balls easily made for my image of the day.
I speculated last week that winter may have just begun, as snow finally made an appearance over The Alps (side note: it’s kind of on hold again). Well the snow came and went, allowing a bitter cold period to take its place. A powerful wind brought ice cold temperatures over a 48 hour period, with the effects best seen down by the lake. Dreary winter landscapes were transformed into outdoor art galleries, with a steady flow of people making it out of their cars to capture ice sculptures as they formed. Each additional burst of waves brought a new layer to these ever-changing formations. As I had great access to the lake, I set out to photograph the ice whilst the wind was still blowing, documenting it over the two days.
What causes it? The Bise
If the Bise makes an appearance in the winter, it generally causes some havoc. It is a cold and dry wind that kicks off in the northeast of Switzerland, funnels its way along the ridge of the Jura mountains before climaxing around the Geneva area. The crashing waves and ice cold temperatures lead to incredible formations where the water settles. Back in 2012, the ice engulfed entire boats and cars which were either docked in port or parked up next to the lake. I didn’t quite experience anything so drastic this time, but you can see from the image below that the lake resembled the ocean at times.With the most accessible ice formations being captured at a rate of 1 image every 5 minutes, there was certainly the need to look further a field and wait for the light to change. For the most part the ice was sheltered underneath a foreboding sky, with a cool blue hue attached to each scene. The odd ray of light did make an appearance however, and I made it my priority to photograph as much under that beautiful winter light. As sunset took hold, a flock of seagulls were illuminated as they picked off Crayfish that had been tossed onto the shore. It seems that breakfast, lunch and dinner for them that day was as good as it gets.
Transforming from day into night
It was fascinating to watch the buildup of ice as the day progressed, with these similar railings captured in the morning, late afternoon and night. The night sky brought about a stillness, with the roadside ice sculptures now appearing to be pieces of art in their own right.Photographing the roadside formations at night brought a new dimension to the ice. Wanting to try and experience some more, I drove out to a nearby forest that I knew was facing the lake. Walking through it, illuminated by just my head torch, I uncovered an ice world that cracked, creaked and shifted under my every footstep. I love photographing landscapes in the evening, especially when you’re completely isolated—relying on your camera and your multiple layers of clothing, capturing the images and then heading back for a warm shower and hot drink.All in all, I went a little crazy photographing this ice. Editing down 1500 images to a small selection was quite the task, especially as so many had unique characteristics. It’s definitely a phenomenon that makes me fully appreciate every season. Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter all have characteristics that I love, and I look forward to documenting each one.
Athens in the snow is quite a sight to behold. I’m not one to use phrases like, ‘once in a lifetime’ but witnessing the city under a blanket of snow might be exactly that, for me at least. As I took a taxi out to the airport on Tuesday, my driver, a life long Athens resident, explained that the last snow to blanket the city was in 2004. In the year that they hosted the Summer Olympics, that storm had brought 50cm of snow to the Capital.Having spent the weekend there, I’d noticed that the air was freezing. Athens is one of those cities that you always expect to be hot, so when sub-zero temperatures take hold everything feels that much more intense. Snow began falling on Monday evening and the city quickly emptied. It felt like everyone went into hiding. I was fascinated by the spectacle, not at least because it happened to be my first snow of the season (up until January the Northern Alps have experienced almost no natural snowfall). Athens in the snow? Are you kidding? I wandered around the grounds of the Acropolis, slipping every few metres on the marble that remains for the most part of the year untouched by precipitation. I captured a few shots on my phone, grabbed some food whilst people watching and then headed back home.Waking up the next morning I was curios to see whether there was any sign of the snow lingering around. I did a social media search, which I often find the most useful for up-to-the-minute searches (#athens, #snow, Athens in the snow, etc) and saw that a couple of people had shared images of the early morning snow. What i’ve started to notice in my time in the city is the relatively small scale of it. In the summer it is extremely hot, so it is not that realistic to cover on foot, but in the winter it’s great. With hardly anyone on the road, I was able to fit my Sony a7II and 70-200 lens into a small backpack and run to the three main hills – Filopappou, Areopagus and Lycabettus – in order to capture Athens in the snow.
Filopappou Hill:
This is probably my favourite hill for views of Athens. There are a variety of paths that are great for running, with the short climb awarding you with one of the best vantage points. Unlike Lycabettus, where you are looking down on the city, Filopappou puts you up close with the Acropolis and offers you an incredible place to see the sunset looking out to sea (like this one here). Every time I’ve ventured up here i’m always amazed by the sights of the city and happy with the lack of people that seem to make the trip up there.
Areopagus Hill:
Peaceful is not a word i’d associate with Areopagus Hill. Photographed here from Filopappou Hill (it’s the little mound dead centre), it has a metal staircase and hundreds of people to boot. It’s surprising really as the view of the Acropolis is certainly sub par, as far as Athens views are concerned. The thing I do love about this vantage point though, is the connection with the city. When you’re stood up there it certainly feels like you’re in the heart of Athens.
Lycabettus Hill:
Athens can be so pretty from up on Lycabettus Hill (like here). The highest point of the city gives you a view from the Gods. The hill can be seen perfectly from Areopagus (above image) and involves a good climb to get up there. I personally like the view from the road about halfway up. I photographed a recent sunset from there (you can see here) and it’s really spectacular. It’s about 2km from the other two hills, and I noticed the speed of the melting snow on Tuesday morning. Yes, Athens had a cold snap but the sunlight was determined to melt it all away. Moving quickly and working with a 200m lens, allowed me to look down on some of the cities highlights, like the Panathenaic Stadium (there’s an amazing running track around the top of the structure. It hurts though as that straight goes on forever).Interested in seeing a bit more of Athens on foot?Lets face it, you’re probably not going to be so lucky to witness Athens in the snow. The majority of tourists come closer to the spring and summer, where this route could easily be done in the morning or evening. The downtown section from Areopagus to the foot of Lycabettus can feel like a bit of a slog with all the traffic, but you’re soon up above the chaos. I didn’t expect this blog to morph into a tale of running but it really was the best way to see all of Athens blanketed in the snow.
Athens in the snow – my route
Here’s a look at my running route. It’s also available on Strava.
It’s good to see some work I completed last summer for Mavic has recently gone live, with their Haute Route collection now available to purchase. I was called up to spend the day climbing the Col de la Columbière with athlete Nicolas Roux. The road is a staple of Tour de France action, featuring 20 times in the race so far. The iconic yellow Mavic car certainly drew attention, with the road remaining open during our shoot. The French love a good alpine climb, and with the cycling season almost in full swing I’m certainly looking forward to putting some ascent in my legs.
Whilst documenting the 
With the most accessible ice formations being captured at a rate of 1 image every 5 minutes, there was certainly the need to look further a field and wait for the light to change. For the most part the ice was sheltered underneath a foreboding sky, with a cool blue hue attached to each scene. The odd ray of light did make an appearance however, and I made it my priority to photograph as much under that beautiful winter light. As sunset took hold, a flock of seagulls were illuminated as they picked off Crayfish that had been tossed onto the shore. It seems that breakfast, lunch and dinner for them that day was as good as it gets.
Photographing the roadside formations at night brought a new dimension to the ice. Wanting to try and experience some more, I drove out to a nearby forest that I knew was facing the lake. Walking through it, illuminated by just my head torch, I uncovered an ice world that cracked, creaked and shifted under my every footstep. I love photographing landscapes in the evening, especially when you’re completely isolated—relying on your camera and your multiple layers of clothing, capturing the images and then heading back for a warm shower and hot drink.
All in all, I went a little crazy photographing this ice. Editing down 1500 images to a small selection was quite the task, especially as so many had unique characteristics. It’s definitely a phenomenon that makes me fully appreciate every season. Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter all have characteristics that I love, and I look forward to documenting each one.
Interested in seeing a bit more of Athens on foot?Lets face it, you’re probably not going to be so lucky to witness Athens in the snow. The majority of tourists come closer to the spring and summer, where this route could easily be done in the morning or evening. The downtown section from Areopagus to the foot of Lycabettus can feel like a bit of a slog with all the traffic, but you’re soon up above the chaos. I didn’t expect this blog to morph into a tale of running but it really was the best way to see all of Athens blanketed in the snow.
It’s good to see some work I completed last summer for Mavic has recently gone 
